viernes, 13 de abril de 2012

Normandía, 68 años de distancia


La mañana se vestía de lluvia. Un manto leve e inevitable, una especie de telón de cielo gris que se confundía a lo lejos con el mar de La Mancha, sin divisiones. Normandía se había levantado con su ropa de todos los domingos.

Bajar del coche y caminar era ya empezar a cruzar fronteras. No la del pasado, con la que uno ya cuenta en un cementerio, sino la de los kilómetros y las naciones. Aquello ya no era Francia y sus tejados de piedra negra; sino América, la del norte, con sus barras y estrellas cubiertas por las tumbas y medallas de sus héroes muertos.

Había muchos allí, bajo la tierra. Héroes y leyenda, la de un desembarco dibujado a máquina, delineado para el paseante. A la derecha, Omaha y su oleaje, las arenas donde cayeron mil quinientos soldados aliados. A la izquierda, el responso, una perfecta llanura horadada por cientos de cruces perfectas sobre el perfecto césped de muchas memorias.

Llevé mis pasos un poco más allá, frente a las tumbas, junto al monumento que enguindaba un pastel de pura solemnidad. Allí, bajo un bronce oscuro, cincuenta ancianos respiraban con sobriedad bajo cincuenta paraguas americanos. Alguno se erguía firme, con la mano recta sobre la frente; los más, puño en pecho susurraban la letra de un himno que temblaba desde alguna megafonía. ‘Barras y estrellas’. Terminó la música y cayeron lágrimas, justo en el momento en el que una trompeta sonaba en alguna estudiada lejanía, ‘Toque de silencio’, memoria, más lágrimas.

Salí de aquellas cruces con la memoria y el silencio. Pensaba en aquellos años cuarenta que cambiaron al mundo; pensaba en héroes y víctimas, y en sangre, litros empapados por aquel rocío tan normando e infinito. Me había calado de recuerdo, de uno ajeno, y casi no sabía cómo explicármelo. Era, quizás, la historia en libros y profesores; o el cine, o aquella liturgia ceremonial y solemne tan bien calculada. 

Arranqué el coche y volví a los tejados negros de la Normandía.


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